Build an Electric Car: Getting Started
This is where we get our hands dirty - removing all the greasy gas parts. This includes the engine, radiator, gas tank, fuel lines, exhaust system, and emission wires and hoses. The transmission, clutch, and flywheel are retained for use in the conversion. Many parts that are removed can be sold.
Before starting it is important to take down measurements of the car’s original ride height so when the conversion is done you will know if the suspension will need additional work. Measure the ride height at the top of each fenderwell.
Label all wires leading to the engine before removing it. Ignition wires will need to be located and labeled because the existing ignition switch will be used to turn the electric car on. The accelerator cable will also be retained. Measurements also need to be taken from the transmission to ensure proper alignment when the electric motor is installed.
With all the old gas stuff removed it’s time to get down to business and install the electric components. But first, the engine compartment will be degreased and painted.
This is the point where the actual conversion begins. The empty engine compartment provides a better perspective of how the components and batteries will be laid out.
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Next step is installing the motor
Build an Electric Car: Tools and Supplies
Most do-it yourselfers already have the tools required to convert an EV. Equipment such as engine hoists can be rented and welding can be contracted out.
It is a good idea to keep a notebook with you as you work on your conversion. There will be times when you need to write down measurements, create drawings and list hardware and supplies for different aspects of the project. Keeping these notes all in one place will make referencing information easier. You also may need to refer to them years after you have completed your project.
Tools
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Supplies
- 1" x 1" x 3/16" angle iron, 12′ length for battery rack
- 1" x 1" x 3/16" angle iron, 5′ length for battery rack
- 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3/16" angle iron, 20′ length for battery rack
- 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" angle iron, 20′ length for battery hold down
- 1" x 1" x 1/8" metal, 10′ length for various brackets
- 4′ x 8′ x 3/4" plywood for battery box
- 4′ x 8′ x 1/2" polyurethane foam insulation for battery box
- 1 1/2" x 20′ PVC pipe for conduit
- 5" x 10′ vent hose for battery box ventillation
- 1/4" Fomecore for models and templates
- Elmers wood glue
- 4 cans Black Rustoleum spray paint for engine compartment and brackets
- 2 quart Rustoleum primer for battery box
- 2 quarts White Rustoleum Waterproof paint for battery box
- Noalux: compound applied to battery lugs to prevent corrosion
- Stainless steel bolts, nuts, washers and lockwashers for brackets and hardware
- Grade 8 automotive bolts, nuts, washers and lockwashers for motor mounts and battery racks
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Now that we have our car, components, tools and supplies there are safety rules we need to go over before getting started
Build an Electric Car: Batteries
The most common batteries used in conversions today are deep-cycle lead-acid batteries. Although Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries are being used by the auto manufacturers for their EVs they are not available to the average EVer building their own EV.
The deep-cycle lead acids are divided into two groups: flooded batteries, also known as wet cells, and sealed batteries, also known as valve-regulated lead-acid (VRLA) batteries.
Flooded batteries are available in 6 and 8-volt versions from Trojan battery and US Battery. Flooded batteries are inexpensive, can take some abuse, and have a high energy density which makes them a good choice for range. They can last anywhere from three to five years. On the down side they are heavy, up to 70 pounds each, and have high internal resistence which doesn’t appeal to the racing set. For distance and cost they are a good bet.
The most popular 12-volt sealed batteries used in EVs today are the Optima Yellow Tops and Genisis Hawker batteries from GNB. Sealed batteries are lighter then wet cells, have low internal resistance and can be installed in various positions. On the downside they are expensive, have a shorter lifespan and limited range. To increase range the batteries can be run in parallel strings which increases the amp/hour capacity of the pack.
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Next step is to gather the tools and supplies
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Electric Car Conversion Manual
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