Electric Car Conversion Kits Calculator
Description: The Electric Car Conversion Kits Cost Comparisson Calculator allows you to enter simple facts like the price of gas and how many gallons your car holds, and then it calculates for you if it’s worth it to convert your car to electric! Very handy for those considering a conversion to Electric or even if you’re just curious.
Author: Electric Car Conversion Kits
Languages: English
Support OS: Win95, Win98, WinME, WinNT 3.x, WinNT 4.x, Windows2000, WinXP, Windows2003, Windows CE, Windows Tablet PC Edi
Price: 0.00$
File size: 0.31 Mb
Release date: 2008-10-29
Published: 2008-10-30
Build an Electric Car: Testing the Car
We’ve finally got the car together, or almost together, and it’s time for a road test. Before heading out, the battery charger is tested and the batteries are charged. The 12 volt system, propulsion wiring, fuses, and battery terminal connections are inspected one last time and the air shocks are filled.
Now for the time we’ve all been waiting for. Turn the key to the start position. Instead of the usual "er-er-er-vrooom" you’ll hear the contactor click then silence. Put the car in gear, release the brake, press the accelerator and off you go.
The first thing you’ll notice is how quiet the car is. This will make it easy to spot any unusual noises or vibrations. The car should brake and accelerate smoothly. The vacuum pump should occassionally turn on to provide the proper level of vacuum for the brakes. If all checks out take a few laps around the neighborhood and enjoy your efforts. Don’t be surprised if your car’s range is shorter on the first run then expected. The batteries usually need about 40 charges before they meet optimum range.
Get professional detailed electric car conversion Manual, click HERE
Next step . . . show off your new car!
Build an Electric Car: Wiring
As shown in the wiring diagram, there are four basic systems in an electric car: the propulsion system, 12 volt system, charging system and the driver’s displays and controls. The propulsion system uses high voltage to power the electric motor, in this case 96 volts. The 12 volt system powers the accessories such as the radio and lights. The onboard charging system uses 120 VAC household current rectified to DC power to charge the batteries.
The driver’s display and controls are pretty much the same as in a gas car. Although not shown in the illustration, the clutch pedal and mechanism are the same and the power brake system is the same except an electric vacuum pump supplies vacuum for the power brakes. The accelerator linkage is now linked to the potbox. Instead of a fuel gauge there is a voltmeter and there is an ammeter that measures the propulsion system amperage.
The propulsion system’s battery pack is split between the front and rear of the car. Since high current, up to 300 amps, will be used in this conversion heavy duty 2/0 welding cable capped with heavy duty lugs is used for connections. In addition, a 400 amp fuse is placed in the circuit. To prevent corrosion a thin layer of Noalux is applied on each battery terminal.
On the 12 volt side, 16 gauge wiring is used throughout the vehicle, except the wiring for the 12 volt battery which is heavier. The existing ignition wire, 12 volt accessories, and components including the vacuum pump, and contactor are wired to a terminal strip. When the ignition key is turned to start the car, the contactor closes the circuit in the propulsion system. Although the circuit is closed, current will not flow to the motor until the driver accelerates.
Also wired into the car is a charger interlock which is a safety relay that opens the contactor while the car is charging. This prevents the car from being driven off while the car is still plugged into the charger.
The charger is an onboard transformerless unit with built in GFI (ground fault interruption). Input wiring includes 10 gauge household wire that is wired from the charger to a 110 VAC outlet under the front bumper of the car. Output wiring includes a positive lead from the charger to the top of the battery pack and a negative lead from the charger to the bottom of the battery pack. The charger has a built in ammeter so amperage can be adjusted according to the available current at the charging location. This means the car can be charged anywhere where there is available electricity.
Get professional detailed electric car conversion Manual, click HERE
Next step is Final testing
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Electric Car Conversion Manual
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